Report

 

British Parliamentary visit

to North Korea

 

September 2005

 

Sponsored by Jubilee Action

 


Introduction

 

The British-North Korean All-Party Parliamentary Group (APG) sent a delegation led by General the Lord Guthrie to visit North Korea from 24th September to 1st October 2005.  The delegation was hosted by the North Korean Supreme PeopleÕs Assembly and sponsored principally by Jubilee Action.[1]

 

The purpose of the visit was to build on previous APG visits[2] with the aim of improving understanding between the two countries, particularly with regard to issues of denuclearisation, humanitarian assistance and human rights. 

 

In addition, the delegation hoped to meet with senior military figures in North Korea and to engage them in discussions about the role soldiers play in democratic societies, to develop relationships, and possibly to pave the way for visits to the UK.

 

 

 

Delegation members[3]

 

General the Lord Guthrie of Cragiebank GCB LVO OBE                      [head of delegation]

Colonel Thomas Ogilvie-Graham MBE

James Mawdsley                                                                      [assistant to delegation]

 

 

 

Summary

 

The visit proved a worthwhile opportunity for an exchange of views.  It was very helpful to see North Korea firsthand.  The delegation was disappointed not to have had more contact with the military and disappointed by the absurd level of secrecy.

 

In discussions all of the senior North Korean officials the delegation met seemed to be mired in an inaccurate account of history and appeared unwilling to look to the future.  Such an attitude made substantive discussions impossible.

 

 

 

Conclusion

 

Despite the frustrations of the visit (which were not unexpected) a possible next step did emerge.  Both General Guthrie and General Kim Sang Ik were positive about the value of low-level military exchanges, and in this specific case, it was suggested that the most appropriate basis could be sport.

 

The idea later developed of the British Army and the Korean PeopleÕs Army fielding a soccer team each to play a match in London and a match in Pyongyang.  This idea will be examined further.

 


Key Issues

 

a) Denuclearisation / Six Party Talks

 

The 4th round of the Six Party Talks concluded successfully with a Joint Statement released on 19th September 2005.  In the statement North Korea Òcommitted to abandoning all nuclear weapons and existing nuclear programs and returning, at an early date, to the Treaty on the Non-Proliferation of Nuclear Weapons and to IAEA safeguards.Ó  The other parties Òagreed to discuss, at an appropriate time, the subject of the provision of light water reactor [sic] to the DPRKÓ and Òstated their willingness to provide energy assistance to the DPRK.Ó[4]

 

Lord Guthrie raised the Six-Party Talks with Mr Kung Sok Ung, Vice-Foreign Minister.  Mr Kung insisted on giving a long-winded historical account before concluding that North Korea was forced to seek a nuclear deterrent as a response to the Òhostile policy of the US aggressorsÓ.[5]

 

When pressed further Mr Kung said the building of a Light Water Reactor (LWR) was an essential precondition of denuclearisation as a visible sign of mutual confidence, and evidence that the US had dropped its Òhostile policyÓ.

 

General Kim Sang Ik, Deputy Minister of the PeopleÕs Armed Forces, said the potential for progress depended entirely upon the US, that the US had to drop their Òhostile policyÓ, and again he premised this on historical inaccuracies.

 

Regardless of the content of the Six-Party Joint Statement, North Korea appears unwilling to abandon its nuclear programs, but it appears to want to use the prospect of denuclearisation as an inducement for the outside world to provide LWRs and other energy assistance.

 

A vital distinction from the 1994 Agreed Framework is that the current process of talks involves six parties (China, North Korea, Japan, South Korea, Russia, the US) instead of two, and therefore it is more difficult for North Korea to deny or re-interpret its commitments.  The delegation got the impression that North Korea was much keener to engage bilaterally with the US rather than have Six-Party Talks.

 

 

b) Humanitarian Assistance

 

The North Korean government has announced its intention not to renew visas for foreign aid workers beyond the end of 2005.  Relief agency workers are extremely concerned that the aid programs they work on will have to be terminated.

 

Vice-Foreign Minister Kung informed Lord Guthrie that North Korea was grateful for assistance received in the past but Òto keep relying on the international community was not good for self-sufficiencyÓ.  Mr Kung said North Korea was expecting a good harvest this autumn, but that anything was possible, so it might be that emergency aid agencies could be asked to return in the future.

 

For some years the North Korean government has been calling for emergency relief aid to be replaced by development aid.  It appears that the Flood Damage Rehabilitation Committee (established following the natural disasters and famine of the mid-1990s) is now to be disbanded, leaving aid agencies without their main North Korean liaisons.

 

With the worst of the famine over, it may be that as North Korea currently receives considerable bilateral aid from China, South Korea and Russia then it no longer feels such acute need for foreign aid agencies. Certainly the North Korean government is extremely uncomfortable with the numbers of foreigners on its soil.

 

Some NGOs have been informed that their programs can continue only with local staff.  Foreign staff would no longer be allowed residency, but could visit.  However there are few (if any) agencies which could accept such lack of transparency.

 

Multi-million dollar programs may survive, particularly those which can brand themselves as giving development aid (for example, FAO, WHO, UNDP, UNICEF).  In any event, by making foreign workers feel uncertain and under threat, the North Korean government may hope to make them easier to control.  Much of what the North Koreans said was unclear and it was felt that decisions could still be changed.

 

 

c) Human Rights

 

Despite raising human rights as a key concern, the delegation received no engagement whatsoever on the issue from Mr Choe Thae Bok and General Kim Sang Ik.[6] 

 

Mr Kung Sok Ung[7] responded to questions on human rights by trying to portray negative coverage, including a BBC documentary, as led by US-owned media.  This was firmly rebutted. 

 

Lord Guthrie said that he had allowed inspectors into British military prisons to see if inmates were being treated correctly.  He admitted the prison authorities were not always exonerated, but said that such a system did deal with the issue.  Mr Kung referred to prisoner maltreatment in Abu Ghraib Prison, Iraq.  Lord Guthrie reinforced the point that the perpetrators were being punished.

 

Mr Kung said that human rights in North Korea could not be measured with a western yardstick.  He said that for North Korea the prime human rights were Ònational sovereignty and self-determinationÓ.  He said the government provided the rights of eating, housing, clothing, medical care and education, which were important rights.  He said therefore the state provides the people with their right to life and their right to existence.  Lord Guthrie said he was shocked to hear human rights described as the right to existence, but said that it was about much more than that: it was about dignity, about quality of life, about fairness.

 

In 2003, 2004 and 2005, the EU has supported resolutions at the UN Commission on Human Rights condemning abuses in North Korea.  Following the Six-Party Talks, Christopher Hill stated, ÒAs part of discussions for normalisation, we want to discuss other important issues: human rights abuses, biological and chemical weapons programs, ballistic missiles programs and proliferation, terrorism and illicit activities.Ó

 

The impression one gets by visiting North Korea is of gross violations of the most fundamental rights.  The population is exhausted.  Most of their time is spent working or else preparing for propaganda parades/displays extolling Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il.  The Mangyongdae ChildrenÕs Palace did not seem so much a centre of excellence as a zoo of prodigies, of children used as propaganda slaves.

 

Part of the delegation encountered a group of young men in Pyongyang who were unusual in their approachability and cheerfulness.  Several joined in conversation, but when a criticism of North Korea was put to them, their cheerfulness evaporated immediately to be replaced by fear and silence.  In North Korea people are daily forced to express the Party line but are clearly terrified of expressing divergent ideas.  At no time did the delegation witness any sign of dissent.


Narrative of the visit

 

 

Saturday 24th September

 

Greeted by Mr Ri Jong Hyok

Greeted at Pyongyang airport by Mr Ri Jong Hyok, Deputy to the SPA and Chairman of the Korea-UK Friendship Group; and by HE David Slinn, UK ambassador to North Korea.  In the evening Mr Ri hosted a welcome dinner for the delegation.

 

 

Sunday 25th September

 

Revolutionary Martyrs Cemetery

Visit to Revolutionary Martyrs Cemetery, Mt Taesong, which commemorates the 1930s anti-Japanese guerrilla struggle in Manchuria.  The cemetery is more concerned with honouring loyalty to Kim Il Sung than honouring sacrifice for Korea.

 

 

Jangchung Catholic Church

Attended the Sunday prayer service at Jangchung Catholic Church.  The delegation was extremely pleased to hear that the church is visited by priests from abroad approximately five times per year, and that the visiting priests can say Mass.  However, it has not been explained why no priests are permitted to live in North Korea, nor why North Koreans cannot be ordained.  Hence the service was led by laymen and as such was non-Eucharistic.

 

The delegation found it odd that every seat in the church was taken, with not one left empty nor one person left standing.  This happens nowhere else in the world.  It was also peculiar to witness the congregation dash for the door immediately as the service ended, thus avoiding any interaction with the delegation.  The impression was that services are under the close scrutiny and control of the KWP.  It is difficult to tell which aspects are genuine and which are contrived.

 

The delegation left over fifty rosaries which had been blessed by John Paul II and a number of prayer cards from Aid to the Church in Need, as well as several booklets on the Martyrs of Korea published by the Catholic Truth Society, in the hope that all these would be distributed.

 

 

Pyongyang Zoo

Visited Pyongyang Zoo, which largely consisted of domestic animals, most of which appeared reasonably healthy.  However some were suffering from severe conditions which could be easily treated with the correct medicine (for example, sarcoptic mange).  There was minimal environmental enrichment.  Several of the animals were gifts from foreign heads of state.

 

 

Monuments in Pyongyang

Visits to Mangyongdae Native Home, the Tower of Juche Idea and the Arch of Triumph, all of which served as opportunities for guides to convey propaganda.

 

 

Monday 26th September

 

International Friendship Exhibition

Visited the International Friendship Exhibition at Mt Myohyang, where gifts are still being sent for President Kim Il Sung, despite his death in 1994.

 

 

Paeksong Cooperative Farm

Met local officials and UK embassy staff at Paeksong Cooperative Farm, Pyongsong City, South Pyongan Province (24km north of Pyongyang).  The farm is sponsored by and receives regular visits from the British Embassy.  The 800 hectare farm supports 2,000 people through 500 workers.  (An arable farm of comparable size in the UK would employ workers in single figures.)  In previous years surplus produce could be sold at markets. However as of this autumnÕs harvest all surplus is to be sold to the government at a fixed price.  There is no place for the entrepreneur.

 

 

Tuesday 27th September

 

Panmunjom, DMZ

Visit to Panmunjom on the De-Militarised Zone (DMZ), escorted by Lieutenant-Colonel Kim Kwang Gil.  Further propaganda and historical inaccuracies were accompanied by accusations that the US was violating rules of the Military Armistice Commission (which has not convened since March 1991) by bringing excessive weaponry into the DMZ.  Soldiers on the North Korean side were noticeably smarter and more disciplined than those on the South.

 

 

Koryo Museum, Kaesong

Visit to the Koryo Museum, Kaesong.  The museum contained items of real interest and very impressive artwork, as well as 1,000-year-old ginko trees.

 

 

Wednesday 28th September

 

Kim Il Sung University

Visit to Kim Il Sung University, accompanied by Mr Ri Jong Hyok.  Regrettably the students were absent (as they were either helping with the rice harvest or else practising for the 10th October parade to mark the 60th anniversary of the Korean Workers Party).  The delegation was given a brief tour of the outside of the university, missing the chance to speak with university and foreign NGO staff present.  The science laboratories appeared devoid of modern equipment.

 

 

Mr Kung Sok Ung, Vice-Foreign Minister

Meeting with Mr Kung Sok Ung, Vice-Foreign Minister at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs (MFA).  Also present were Mr So Chol, Deputy Director of the European Department of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Mr Ji Su Gwan, Chief Desk Officer, Protocol Department, MFA.

 

The main points of discussion are covered in the ÒsummaryÓ section of the report (above).

 

 

Koryo-Global Credit Bank

Brief call on the Koryo-Global Credit Bank office at the Yanggakdo Hotel.

 

 

West Sea Barrage, Nampo

Visit to the West Sea Barrage at Nampo.  The barrage is an impressive feat of engineering.  The dam at the mouth of the Taedong River is 8 km long, 16m wide on the top and over 200m wide at its base.  Sluice gates control the water level of the river, and three locks allow cargo ships through of 2,000 tonne, 20,000 tonne and 50,000 tonne capacities respectively.

 

The main benefits of the barrage are: by controlling the water level of the Taedong River larger ships can reach the port of Nampo, such that it can now receive 45 million tonnes of cargo annually; as the Taedong River has become desalinated, thus making its water suitable for large irrigation projects; and the barrage protects Pyongyang from flooding.

 

The barrage was built by 30,000 soldiers of the Korean PeopleÕs Army (KPA) in the early 1980s.  Many died during the extremely difficult construction.  The project is portrayed as an example of manÕs victorious battle against nature under Juche ideology and the guidance of the Great Leader Kim Il Sung and the Dear Leader Kim Jong Il.

 

 

Arirang Performance

Attended Arirang Performance at the Labour Day Stadium, hosted by Mr Ri Sam Ro, Deputy to the SPA and Director of the Foreign Affairs Department of the Presidium of the SPA.  It was an incredible show, involving 100,000 performers/gymnasts/children.  Two to four thousand of them filled the arena for each scene, all of which were exceptionally well choreographed.  One scene involved a taekwondo display by over 2,000 soldiers of the KPA.  It was the most astonishingly well-executed drill any of the delegation had ever seen.  Not a foot was seen out of place in what was an energetic and complex demonstration.

 

The performance runs each night from 15th August to 17th October.  The last time it was done was in 2000.  The delegation was grateful to be given the best seats in the house.  The performance attracted many tourists from China and Russia, and there was a warm welcome in the stadium for hundreds of South Korean visitors.

 

With more performers than viewers, the production would certainly be unviable anywhere else in the world, if only for economic reasons.  Although the show is extremely impressive, it leaves a bad taste of compulsion and of unease at goose-stepping children.

 

 

Thursday 29th September

 

Kumsusan Memorial Palace

Visit to Kumsusan Memorial Palace, the mausoleum of Kim Il Sung, accompanied by Mr Ri Jong Hyok.  On reaching the casement holding Kim Il SungÕs body, all North Korean visitors are required to bow.  Of foreign visitors, some bow, some do not.

 

 

Grand PeopleÕs Study House

Visit to the Grand PeopleÕs Study House, accompanied by Mr Ri Jong Hyok.  The delegation met a Canadian woman teaching English to a group of students in the study house.  Also taught are Chinese, Russian and Japanese.

 

 

General Kim Sang Ik, Deputy Minister of the PeopleÕs Armed Forces

Meeting with General Kim Sang Ik, Deputy Minister of the PeopleÕs Armed Forces.  Also present were Major-General An Yong Ki, Director of Military External Affairs (MEA); Colonel Sin Sung Chol, Chief of Section in MEA; Colonel Kim Jim Myong, Sub-Chief of the Relation Section in MEA; Colonel Kim Kil Un, Sub-Chief of Protocol Section in MEA; Lieutenant-Colonel Kim Chol Jun, Staff of the Relation Section in MEA [translator]. The meeting took place at a Ôguest houseÕ in Pyongyang.

 

On the Six-Party Talks and denuclearisation, General Kim blamed the entire impasse on the US.  On reunification General Kim repeated the position of the late Kim Il Sung, that it must be a step-by-step process of unifying what is acceptable to both sides but leaving distinct areas of difference (for example politics).  Lord Guthrie suggested it was unlikely that South Korean people would wish to live under the North Korean system, and that the reunification of Germany was more like a take-over of the east by the west.

 

Lord Guthrie commented on the high level of spending on the North Korean military.  General Kim explained that the songun (Òmilitary firstÓ) policy was necessary as North Korea faced a direct threat from the US along the DMZ.  Lord Guthrie pointed out that for many years western Europe faced a direct threat from the USSR along a much longer Iron Curtain.

 

Lord Guthrie said that the UK ended conscription in 1959, deciding that a smaller professional army would be more effective than a large conscripted one.  General Kim said the KPA existed not only to defend the nation but also for socialist construction.

 

General Kim and Lord Guthrie both expressed interest in possible exchanges of military personnel between the DPRK and UK, perhaps beginning with low level sporting contests.[8]  For general interest, the delegation handed over recent editions of UK military magazines (British Army Review, Defence Director, Army Medical Services etc).

 

The delegation might have counted the meeting a success on the grounds that Òour manÓ was rational; made logical and pertinent points; spoke clearly and directly; opened up about himself and about the UK; made tough criticisms; cut short bluster and prevarication.  The North Korean side might have counted the meeting a success as Òtheir manÓ conceded nothing, no promises; revealed nothing of his country or himself; was for the most part courteous but also hawked and looked bored; proclaimed the Party line.  But such minor successes left serious problems unaddressed.  The most positive aspect of the meeting was that both sides made jokes which both sides found funny.

 

 

Mangyongdae SchoolchildrenÕs Palace

Tour of Mangyongdae SchoolchildrenÕs Palace, led by Mr Sin Ryung Gyun, Head of Artictic Subjects.  The delegation was greeted by Mr Kim Chul Ung, Head of External Affairs, and accompanied by Mr Ri Jong Hyok.  The delegation saw very young children engaged in sketching, painting, embroidery, singing, ballet, drama, music.  All the activities were carried out to an extremely high standard. 

 

At the end of the tour was a full theatrical performance involving many children.  The delegation was concerned that the children had to be pushed far too hard to achieve such immaculate standards.

 

 

Reception at British Embassy

The British embassy hosted a reception for NGO staff.

 

 

Friday 30th September

 

Fatherland Liberation War Victory Museum

Tour of Fatherland Liberation War Victory Museum.  The museum contained a beautifully painted panorama.  The guide made no mention of the Chinese PeopleÕs Volunteers, underplayed the outstanding military success of Operation Chromite, and repeated baseless allegations that the US used biological weapons during the Korean War.

 

The historical narrative was inaccurate, and the museum treated as an opportunity for propaganda rather than for illumination.  The displays seemed to have changed little if at all since the 1970s.

 

 

Mangyongdae Revolutionary School

Tour of Mangyongdae Revolutionary School led by Major-General Chae Jong Hik.  Established in 1948 for the children of those killed fighting alongside Kim Il Sung, the school now is home to 1,000 students, most of them whose fathers have died in service of the country (for example in socialist construction).  All are expected to go on to be officers in the KPA.  The facilities at the cadet school are better than at most other schools in the country.

 

After the delegation expressed extreme disappointment at not being able to meet with or see any of the cadets, arrangements were made so that a classroom in action could be visited.  The boys present, being taught geometry, seemed healthy and well disciplined.

 

The living conditions were extremely Spartan.  Students are allowed no personal possessions beyond a toothbrush, and are not allowed out except in groups.  One dormitory we visited had two large beds for 30 cadets.  15 sleep together in each bed (although these ÔkungÕ style beds are not unusual in Korea).

 

 

Mr Choe Thae Bok, Chairman of the Supreme PeopleÕs Assembly

Courtesy call on Mr Choe Thae Bok, Chairman of the Supreme PeopleÕs Assembly.  Also present were Mr Ri Jong Hyok, Mr Ri Sam Ro, Mr Ji Su Gwan, and Mr Jo Kum Chol, Chef de Service, Foreign Affairs Department of the Presidium of the SPA.

 

Mr Choe asked after the Speakers of the British Parliament, Lord Falconer and Michael Martin MP.  He also sent his regards to Baroness Cox, Lord Alton and Gary Streeter MP who had made previous visits.

 

The delegation raised denuclearisation, human rights and humanitarian assistance.  Unfortunately, the ensuing conversation covered no points of substance.  The Chairman came across as a man who no longer was on top of his job and had few views.

 

 

Pyongyang Metro

Visit to Pyongyang Metro.  Being over 100m underground the ornately decorated train network doubles as an air-raid shelter for Pyongyang citizens.

 

 

British Embassy

Present at a farewell dinner at the British embassy were Mr Ri Jong Hyok, Mr Ri Sam Ro, Colonel Kim Jin Myong, Lieutenant-Colonel Kim Chol Jun, Professor Choe Yong Il and Mr Choe Yong Su.  Unable to attend was Mr Jo Kum Chol.  Present on the British side were, Lord Guthrie, Ambassador Slinn, Colonel Ogilvie-Graham, Kevin Lynch (FCO), Ewan Graham (FCO), Claire Thornton (FCO) and James Mawdsley.

 

 

Saturday 1st October

 

Departure from Pyongyang airport.

 

 

 

Miscellaneous Points

 

The delegation was accompanied throughout the visit by Mr Choe Yong Il, Professor of English at Foreign Languages School (interpreter for the delegation); and by Mr Choe Yong Su, Senior Officer of the Permanent Committee of the Foreign Affairs Department of the SPA (SPA liaison to the delegation).  The translation was clear and accurate, and both men were attentive to the delegation, helping accommodate some late notice changes to the itinerary.

 

The delegation found themselves relatively unhindered if they wished to take unaccompanied walks from their accommodation at the Koryo Hotel.

 

 

 

 

For further information about the visit, please contact JRRMawdsley@aol.com

 

 



[1] Jubilee Action, St Johns, Cranleigh Road, Wonersh, Guilford, Surrey, GU5 0QX.

[2] Notably by Baroness Cox and Lord Alton in September 2003; by Gary Streeter and Michael Bates in November 2003; and by SPA Chairman Choe Thae BokÕs visit to the UK in April 2004.

[3] The delegation was accompanied throughout the visit by Claire Thornton of the Foreign and Commonwealth Office, who was on a familiarisation tour of the region.

 

[4] Immediately following the talks Christopher Hill, the US Assistant Secretary of State, gave a statement making it explicit that the US regarded the Òappropriate timeÓ to discuss nuclear energy/LWRs would come only after verified denuclearisation and North KoreaÕs full compliance with NPT and IAEA safeguards.  On 20th September the North Korean Foreign Ministry released a statement countering this to say, ÒThe DPRK, as is clarified in the joint statement, will return to the NPT immediately and conclude a safeguards accord with the IAEA and implement it if the US provides LWRs, the basis of confidence building, to the DPRK.Ó

[5] Mr Kung claimed that in 1950 the US started the Korean War by invading the North, rather than admitting that the North invaded the South.  This falsehood is repeated at every opportunity in North Korean propaganda.

[6] Chairman of the Supreme PeopleÕs Assembly and Deputy Minister of the PeopleÕs Armed Forces respectively.

[7] Vice-Foreign Minister covering EU affairs.

[8] General Kim suggested boxing or taekwondo.  Lord Guthrie responded that boxing would be fine, but if they challenged Britain to taekwondo, we would reciprocate with cricket.